The Green E.D.G.E.
MONTGOMERY COUNTY
Educating & Demonstrating Green Environments.
Environmental stewardship through sound horticultural practices!
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Springing Into Green
First of all, turf can now be fertilized to assist in a healthy growing pattern. Nitrogen is the key nutrient that promotes leaf growth. A general recommendation of 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per year is used for most lawns. However, a soil test is still recommended to get an idea of the nutrient levels that are stored in the soil. A soil test will give the recommended fertilization for any given part of your landscape (ex. Lawn, Garden, Landscape).
In order to accomplish a 1-2 pounds of nitrogen, it is important to get the square footage of your lawn area and also understand the numbers on a fertilizer bag. The first number on a fertilizer bag is the % Nitrogen in the total weight of the bag. The second number is % Phosphorus, and the third number is % Potassium. This is typically referred to as N-P-K.
Typical recommendations for Nueces County, from the Texas AgriLife Extension Service Soil, Water and Forage Testing Laboratory, indicated that Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0) should be applied. If you need to have your soil tested, you can get the forms and information online at http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/. Also, a good site to help figure out how much of a particular fertilizer needs to be applied can be found at http://aggieturf.tamu.edu/aggieturf2/calculators/fertsheet.html. You can also find information to help you calibrate spreader equipment at http://aggieturf.tamu.edu/aggieturf2/calibration/calibration.html. In addition, information on how to take soil samples. http://aggieturf.tamu.edu/aggieturf2/soilsample/soilsample1.html These are great tools to help you save some money on fertilization and deter over application of fertilizers which negatively impacts our bays and estuaries.
In addition, this a great time to trim dead or damaged foliage and branches from trees and shrubs. The new growth and developing buds can assist with shaping and retraining plants to grow in the form that we choose. There is also a great publication that will assist and inform homeowners of best practices and techniques used for trimming at http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/landscape/pruning/pruning.html.
Monday, February 21, 2011
Coastal Bend Landscape Conference
8:00– 8:30 a.m. Registration Fee $30/person (includes lunch and snacks during breaks.)
8:30-9:15 a.m. Drainage for Corpus Christi
9:15-10:00 a.m. Environmental Impacts on Bays Estuaries and the Gulf of Mexico
10:15-10:30 a.m. Break10:30-11:15 a.m. Trees Please!!!
11:15-12:00 p.m. Turf Management
12:00-1:00 p.m. Catered Lunch
1:00-1:45 p.m. Earthkind
1:45-2:15 p.m. Drift Minimization
2:30-3:30 p.m. Pesticide Laws & Regulations Update
3:30 p.m. Adjourn
Sponsored By:
Nueces County Extension LAB , Nueces Horticulture Advisory Committee
and Texas AgriLife Extension, City of Corpus Christi Storm Water Dept. & Del Mar College
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Spring.. or not!
Keep in mind that trimming plants after winter is a great time to reshape the way your plants grow. I am referring to plants that may have out grown the landscape or may be growing in the wrong direction. When buds start to form, pruning your plants for future growth is beneficial to the aesthetics of your landscape. Here is a link to a great publication that explains pruning in detail. Happy Gardening.
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/landscape/pruning/pruning.html
Monday, January 31, 2011
Potential Freeze
Cold fronts seem to hit us by surprise some years. Keep in mind that covering plants will protect and promote better growth in early spring. Protection by covering and even putting a strand of Christmas lights around the plant will help protect from frosts. Using old bed sheets and blankets are easy fix.
The majority of damage will probably occur with tropical plants. Plants with large leaves and fleshy stems like banana plants, elephant ears, spider lilies, gingers, cannas, and split-leaf philodendrons will have the most damage. Many of the above plants will have not only brown leaves, but a stinky water soaked greenery. It is extremely important to address these plants quickly.
As water freezes, it actually causes the cell membranes to sever and releases the liquid inside, giving the plant the water-soaked appearance. The damage is accelerated in light, so those tropicals in full sun often have more damage than those in shade than those that left covered for a couple of extra days.
For those plants that have obvious damage, the question then becomes whether to cut them back or not. In most cases, less is better. Plants that have bare stems or a few small leaves that appear to have turned black due to the freeze should be left. Excessive pruning could expose the rest of the plant to additional damage if another major freeze occurs in the near future.
An easy way to remember if you should prune or not after a freeze is to use the phrase “Remove the mush.” If the freeze damage to plants shows up as watersoaked leaves that are beginning to rot, it is important to get rid of those quickly. If left unchecked, bacterial and fungal disease can attack these areas and work its way down to the undamaged part of the plants.
Since you are dealing with plants that might have bacterial rots, I’d also suggest taking a bucket with 10% bleach water (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) with you during your cleanup pruning. Dip your clippers in the solution after you cut each branch, and especially before moving onto another plant. This simply sanitary practice will help to kill bacteria and fungi could be passed from one plant to another on your clippers.
For the most part, your landscape probably will fare better than you expect. St. Augustine grass that was still holding on to green blades, will probably look a little browner. That’s ok, our warm season grasses will often turn brown in the winter. That is why they are called warm season grasses. Just wait until spring when turf starts growing again and your lawn will green up nicely. Also, don’t try to force a greener lawn with fertilizer now. Wait until March to fertilize.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Summer Woes

This summer has been challenging! Copious amounts of rain started us off with tremendous growth both in lawns and landscaping. Let us not forget that cold temperatures during this past winter affected many plants around the landscape. I am still seeing palm trees around the county that have not fully recovered from the freezing temperatures experienced this past winter. Now we are challenged with higher than usual heat and humidity, which creates many challenges for homeowners. The key to surviving a hot humid summer in the coastal bend is to water. However, that being said, high humidity can increase the incidence of fungus in our lawns and on landscape plants. Also, I am noticing high populations of insects. Several things should be considered when combating common problems in our landscapes:
- Water early in the morning - (4:00 a.m. - 7:00 a.m.) This decreases the amount of water left on the leaf surfaces. This moisture evaporates during the morning and does not allow for fungus growth. As moisture sits on top of leaves for a period of time, fungus has a better chance for survival and spread. The most important environmental reason for watering early in the morning is the fact that water is saved rather than lost due to evaporation.
- Think EarthKind!--If you are battling insects or other plant problems, choose the least toxic. This, for instance, may be using a soap and water solution to spray mealy bugs on hibiscus plants. Also, using products that contain natural products that deter or disrupt insect feeding habits. (ex. fire ants- use products that contain the active ingredient spinosad.)
- Lawn Fertilization - Is your lawn not staying green? This is a typical scenario with the amount of rain that has occurred this summer. Even though rain is very beneficial for lawn growth, major nutrients can leach out of the root zone and leave grass starving for food. Late August and early September can be a good time to give your turf a little boost of nitrogen and keep the lawn healthy. Just a simple 1/2 to 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet can perk up your lawn. Keep in mind to calculate your square footage of turf. If you need further help, you can go to the following site for a turf fertilization calculator.(http://aggieturf.tamu.edu/aggieturf2/calculators/fertsheet.html)
At Texas Agrilife Extension Service, our job is to improve the lives of the citizens of Texas. If you have any questions or would like additional information, please visit our website for contact information, publication and upcoming events.
Happy Gardening!